If so, this is the post for you. Here is how you go about removing the daytime running lights feature from your 2007+ Toyota Tundra.

Parts and Tools You Need

First, you’ll need a flasher module without daytime running lights. For a 2010, the part number is 81980-0C020. Danny managed to order that part from his local Toyota dealer for $55.

Next, you’ll need the following tools:

• 10mm deep-well socket, socket wrench, and extension
• Toyota plastic panel prying tools (optional, but will make the job a little easier)

Step-by-Step Process

1. Disconnect negative battery post.

NOTE: Once you disconnect power, your vehicle’s electronic accessories may lose their memory or codes. This means that you may only lose your programmed radio stations if your truck is mostly stock, or you may lose all your fancy stereo settings, alarm system settings, etc. Be sure to check your owner’s manual and any accessory manuals before you get started, and remember that TundraHeadquarters.com isn’t responsible for you and your truck if you make this mod.

2. Remove the plastic door sill. It’s simply clipped into wire loom clips. Pull it up gently and it will pop lose. See image #1 below.

Image #1

3. Remove the driver side left kick panel. There is one thumb screw and 2 internal clips. Please note the locations of the internal clips to prevent damage when removing. See image #1 above and #2 below.

Image #2

4. Remove the lower dash panel. There are 2 -10mm bolts and a bunch of plastic clips. Be careful not to break any clips or damage any wires connected to accessories. See image #3 below.

Image #3 - note the red arrow

5. Once the lower dash panel has been moved, you can see the flasher module on the far left directly underneath the mirror controls and held in place with a single 10mm nut. This is where you will need a 10mm deep well socket wrench with an extension. See image #4 below.

Image #4 - There is a slightly yellow circle surrounding the flasher module

6. Pull the old flasher module out, unplug and replace with the new one. See image #5 below.

Image #5

7. Re-install the flasher module, re-assemble the dash, check for lose and/or remaining parts, re-connect the battery, and it’s done.

NOTE: Click on any of the images above to get a better view.

*Special thanks to Danny for taking the time to send these photos in, not to mention all the comments and other contributions he makes here.

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

Motor oil. Not all motor oils are created equal…but there’s usually not a lot of difference either. Whether you’re using “natural” oil, pure synthetic, or a blend of the two, the after-market offers an excellent option. From premium synthetics like Amsoil and Mobil 1 that match or outperform factory oil to plain old Penzoil, all the oil you’ll find at your local auto parts store is good enough to get the job done (at least if you change it frequently enough).

Air filters. The factory air filter in your vehicle is a compromise between noise, cost, and performance. Most OEMs are still using low-tech paper air filters because they’re good enough to get the job done when they’re clean, they’re very quiet, and they’re absurdly cheap.

We tested a K&N air filter and saw better fuel economy and throttle response in exchange for a little more engine noise. We think it's a pretty good trade.

However – air flow rates on paper air filters drop off pretty dramatically once they get a little dirty, which means that you either need to buy a new paper air filter every 5-10k miles to maintain optimum performance or go with a superior after-market air filter that doesn’t begin to restrict airflow as soon as it gets a little dirty. We tested a K&N air filter and found it offered better throttle response and better fuel economy than the factory filter, the trade being a slightly higher cost and a little more engine noise. When you stop compromising because of cost and noise, performance improves.

Batteries. This is a situation where there’s actually a very clear benefit in buying an after-market part. Because batteries are so interchangeable – one battery can be designed to fit in dozens of different vehicles – after-market companies can manufacturer hundreds of thousands or even millions of batteries at a time…which means they can approach OEM costs. Because there’s so much competition, most after-market batteries meet or exceed OEM standards. While we don’t recommend buying the cheapest battery possible, often times that’s exactly what the OEM does…so you really can’t go wrong buying anything else.

Tires. If you’re looking for a tire that’s quiet, has a good ride, and doesn’t cost very much, the OEM tire is a decent option. Otherwise, the after-market has a better solution. OEM truck tires in particular are notoriously cheap – most truck manufacturers place passenger car tires on their new trucks in order to save as much money as possible.

Electronic accessories. While factory stereos have improved immensely in the last decade, they’re still inferior to most quality after-market units. The speakers in the door panels are sometimes ultra-cheap paper cones, and it’s a rare occurrence when a factory head unit has both clarity over a wide range and the power to make some real volume. After-market stereos are still a cut above factory units, and that goes for GPS systems and in-car entertainment too.

Other parts where the after-market does a great job:

• Shocks – Just like batteries, shocks can be made to fit many different vehicles. OEM shocks are usually the cheapest part available, so almost any after-market shock will be better.
• Premium brake pads and rotors – We evaluated both premium after-market brake pads and after-market rotors for trucks. OEM parts are a compromise between noise, cost, and performance – if you’re willing to pay a little more, after-market pads and rotors are better.
• Lighting – When it comes to headlights, an auto manufacturer’s main concern is cost. After-market lamps are usually just as good as or much better than factory.
• Accessories – From floor mats to tonneau covers to exhaust systems to wheels, the after-market offers a much wider range of options at a better cost. While not all after-market accessories are top quality, most of the big names offer good quality stuff.

Comments – anything I missed?

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

Also frustrating Tundra owners is the fact that a relatively simple electric pump costs $900-$1200 in the first place.

Here’s the how and why of how dealers and manufacturers price repair parts.

How Auto Manufacturers Buy and Sell Parts

Because new vehicle parts are supplied “just in time” for assembly, suppliers often agree to produce some extra parts for use in repairs. These factory spare parts often represent an opportunity to make a tidy little profit. The factory is buying these 100’s of thousands of parts a year, and they get a very good price on them. If the after-market decides to sell a competing part, they’re not buying 100’s of thousands of these parts at a time…which means they don’t get nearly as good of a price on each individual part.

As a result, after-market companies usually focus on building and selling commonly needed repair items like alternators, fuel pumps, and “wearables.” Specialty repair parts like air injection pumps – which are rarely needed on most vehicles – aren’t built and sold by most after-market parts companies. This means that the factory doesn’t have to price many of their repair parts too aggressively…unless an after-market company can manufacturer thousands of repair parts at a time, the factory has a pretty sizable cost advantage.

Bottom line – the factory is selling most of their repair parts for 2-20 times more than they paid.

Dealer Mark-up On Repair Parts

Once the manufacturer gets done marking-up a part, one of the biggest profit centers in any dealership is parts mark-up. Typically, dealers charge consumer 100-120% of suggested retail value for repair parts. They do this because:

1. On a low-cost part like a spark plug or an oil filter, 20% over suggested retail is only slightly more than you might pay for a non-Toyota part at your local parts store.
2. Some parts don’t have a whole lot of mark-up in the first place.
3. Because they can.

The thing is, dealers sell parts to wholesale customers (like independent repair shops) for 10-15% over wholesale…with is significantly less than retail. This is why we’re seeing some pretty wild discrepancies in parts costs from dealer to dealer. Some dealers, in an effort to keep costs down, are giving their customers wholesale pricing. Other dealers are trying to make a killing on an unwitting customer and charging 120% of retail.

To be clear – charging 20% over retail is never acceptable, but paying an extra dollar or two for an air filter isn’t a big deal. Paying more than retail on a cheap part is not a problem. What IS a problem is paying over retail for an expensive part like an air pump, alternator, set of 4 shocks, etc. Some dealers don’t seem to understand that pigs get fat while hogs gets slaughtered.

What You Can Do To Get a Good Price On Dealer Parts

1. Ask for a discount. Explain that you understand some dealers charge full retail (or more) and that you’re not going to accept that.

2. Call other dealers for pricing info and compare it to the discounted price you’ve been quoted.

3. Go online. We’ve got a list of Toyota dealers who sell parts online, and their pricing is aggressive.

4. Remember, your dealer can’t force you to buy parts from them - you can provide the parts for a repair yourself. However, some dealers will not repair your vehicle with after-market parts because they feel those parts are inferior…and sometimes they are.

5. Buy OEM quality parts when you can. All things being equal, the manufacturer’s parts are better. Work with your dealer to get the best price and buy factory parts if at all possible.

Good luck!

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

Manufacturers keep secrets. Manufacturers are legally allowed to keep status codes and repair manuals secret, and often times a vehicle that’s just two or three years old can’t be diagnosed by an independent shop because the independent doesn’t have access to the manufacturer’s documentation. On vehicles that are less than 5 years old, independent shops don’t always have the right equipment to diagnose your car correctly (especially for the more complicated problems).

Dealers have tremendous resources. Answer these two questions before your next oil change:

1. If your independent shop screws up and forgets to tighten lugnuts, or forgets to put your drain plug in your engine, can they write you a check for a new vehicle? Do they have insurance to cover any accidents their mistakes might cause?
2. If your independent repair shop can’t figure out what’s wrong with your truck, can they call the engineer in charge of the system?

The answer to question 2 of course is ‘No,’ and often times the answer to question 1 is ‘No’ as well. While every shop carries some sort of liability policy, a lot of the smaller shops don’t have the best insurance, nor do they have a lot of cash on hand. Auto dealers, on the other hand, are required by both the manufacturer they represent and the state they do business in to carry comprehensive insurance, and dealerships are significantly more likely to have cash to pay for their mistakes.

Dealers aren’t any more expensive than independents. OK – the guy down the block that changes oil for $30 cash is definitely cheaper, and if you want to take your $20k-$50k vehicle to a guy that changes oil in his driveway be my guest. However, if you compare pricing at your typical independent chain (like Midas or Jiffy Lube), often times the costs are the same as those you would find at a dealership. Dealerships might be a little higher on some things, but often times they provide services that Midas and Jiffy Lube do not (like free loaner cars and high-quality waiting areas with free capuccinos, etc.).

Dealers are less likely to lie to you. A lot of people believe that independent shops are more honest than dealers, but a comprehensive study conducted by AutoMD.com found that independent shops change their pricing from day to day. In Chicago, for example, AutoMD found that every shop they contacted changed their price quote for the same service over the course of a few days.

Think about it – who has more to lose by lying to customers? The guy who works out of an abandoned gas station, or the corporation that owns a $25 million dealership complex? If an independent shop gets a bad reputation, they can always close and move somewhere esle and start over. However, if a Toyota dealer gets a bad reputation (for example), Toyota (or any other manufacturer) can take their franchise away and bare them from ever owning a Toyota dealership again.

To be clear, all shops will lie to some customers sometimes. At worst, dealers are no worse than the independents.

After warranty assistance. A lot of consumers don’t know about it, but After Warranty Assistance (AWA) can be a life-saver. Every new car dealership has the discretion to “warranty” a portion of repairs that aren’t actually covered in the interests of customer service. For example, if your Tundra loses an air induction pump and it’s no longer under factory warranty, your local Toyota dealer has the discretion to pay for some or all of the repair as a sign of goodwill (known in the business as AWA).

This, obviously, is a tremendous benefit. Even if the dealership charges you a little more for your normal maintenance (and they often don’t), all it takes is one repair covered by after-warranty-assistance to earn back your higher expenses.

Dealers don’t just hand out AWA, however. They have a limited amount of funds that they can give away, and they usually don’t grant AWA to people that don’t do all their service at the dealership. So, all the more reason to do your vehicle maintenance at your local dealer.

The dealer specializes in your car. Can it be any simpler? They see hundreds of cars just like yours every month. Your independent? Maybe…but most likely no. He or she probably sees a different make and model every day, and as a result they don’t know as much about your vehicle as your local dealer.

Reasons You Might Not Service Your Car At A Dealership

1. It’s more than 7 years old or has more than 70k miles. After 7 years, your dealer can’t provide AWA. Also, enough time has gone by that the independents now have access to full diagnostic info and notes. On older vehicles, independents are a lot more likely to have the knowledge they need, and often times they’ll use cheaper parts and have lower labor costs. Once a vehicle is 7 years old, it’s on the downhill side of life anyways, so OEM parts aren’t as important, and you’re not going to lose as much if the independent shop screws up your vehicle.

2. You have to. If you can’t get your car serviced at the dealership because it’s too far away, or if you just can’t get to the dealer because of a schedule conflict, it’s better to get your truck serviced by an independent than not serviced at all.

3. You’ve found a great independent shop. This isn’t intended to be a slam of all independent repair shops – there are a lot of great ones out there. If you’ve found a good one, then by all means use them. Just understand that you’re choosing not to work with the manufacturer…which means they may not work with you when something goes wrong.

Bottom Line: When you weigh the risks associated with independent repair shops against the benefits of working with your dealer, it’s very hard to justify servicing your newer vehicle anywhere else. Toyota’s problems with air induction pumps are just a recent example of the importance of AWA, and when you sit down and compare the price of an oil change and tire rotation at Jiffy Lube to the price at your local dealer, you might just find the dealership’s pricing is pretty comparable. Maybe even less…

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

If you’re having a problem with your dealership and you’re not sure what you should do, there are TWO posts you should read. The one you’re looking at now, and this post on Dealership Customer Service – Tips for Getting Your Problem Solved.

7 Dumb Mistakes Customers Make When Working With Auto Dealership Service Departments

1. Bragging about how many cars you’ve bought from the dealership. This is akin to saying “I’m more special than anyone else.” While it might be true, the fact is that a) sales and service are different departments, and the person at the service counter (often known as a service adviser) really doesn’t care how many cars you bought and b) every customer has to be treated the same, whether they’ve bought 10 cars, 2 cars, or none.

If you really want to tell someone how important you are because of all those cars you’ve bought, go find the sales person or sales manager that sold you all of your cars from and ask them for help…that will work much better than telling the service advisor that you buy a new Camry every two years for blah blah blah.

2. Telling the service writer that you can “send a lot of business their way” if they do a good job. This one might seem like a good idea, but take a step back: How many times do you think the service adviser has heard this line? How many times do you think it’s actually come true? Don’t waste your breath – save your boasting for your friends at the bar.

3. Claiming to be friends with the owner, some higher up, or Akio Toyoda in order to try and get something “extra.” Saying “I went to the high school with the owner of this dealership” is a waste of breath. A lot of people make these types of claims, and the fact is that sometimes the owner (or other higher up) isn’t all that popular. Claiming you know him or her is like painting a target on your forehead that says “I’m a jerk just like your boss.” Skip it.

4. Yelling and screaming. You’ve got to be a grade-A moron to yell at someone who is trying to fix your car. Not only is it a waste of effort (they’ve been yelled at by bigger and better people than you), but it’s a great way to make sure the problem never gets fixed. Do you really think a technician is going to bust his ass to fix your car when you just called him every name in the book?

Here’s the smart play – go buy a box of donuts or two, bring them into the service drive, and ask for help. The people working at the dealership will be so amazed by your kindness they’ll work overtime to fix your car.

5. Lying about facts that the dealership can easily verify. This happens a LOT – a person will bring their car into a Toyota dealer, claim that they’ve had something on the car looked at 5 or 6 times, and then demand a free repair, a loaner, whatever. NEWS FLASH: Dealers all use the same computer system. If you say “I’ve had the transmission looked at twice in the last two weeks,” the dealership can usually verify that. When the person you’re working with discovers that you’re feeding them BS to try and get what you want, they’re not going to believe anything else you say.

Generally speaking, lying is a poor negotiation strategy.

6. Threatening to go to the media. This NEVER works. NEVER. At a busy dealership, people say that they’re going to call the local news station about 10 times a day. Guess what? 99% of them never do. What’s more, even when people DO call, the local news usually doesn’t care.

7. Threatening to “sue” or pursue “legal action.” This can work, but only if the threat comes from a letter written by an actual attorney and delivered via certified mail.

Here’s the kicker with threatening legal action: You can’t get an attorney to send a letter like this for less than a couple hundred dollars. If the dealership is truly in the wrong, they’ll usually do something to make your problem go away once they have that piece of paper. However, if they know they’re in the right, they’ll have their attorney contact your attorney via certified mail, and then your legal bill will go from $200 to $2,000 in less than a week.

Anyone who’s ever actually tried to file a lawsuit knows that it’s absolutely the last resort…and everyone who’s worked at a dealership for more than 2 weeks recognizes that threats of legal action are completely and totally baseless because most people can’t or won’t spend the money.

Here’s a Cheat Sheet For Dealing With Dealership Service Departments

1. Don’t lie. Not only have they heard them all, but they can usually figure out when you’re lying to them.
2. Don’t boast. No one will believe it, and it makes you sound like a moron (cause most of the time, only morons do it).
3. Don’t make vague threats about media or lawsuits…they hear those all the time.
4. Be nice. This works amazingly well, mostly because the people that dealerships come into contact with usually aren’t very nice. Be the exception, and you’ll get exceptional treatment.

The Satisfaction Survey Is King

Finally, here’s the most important tip we can give: your leverage is your customer satisfaction survey. The Service Advisor’s paycheck comes from two places: 1) How much service they sell and 2) How many people are “completely satisfied.” If they get a lot of good surveys, they usually get a nice bonus.

If you explain that you understand the importance of the survey, and you promise the person you’re talking to that you’ll fill it out “completely satisfied” across the board, your chances of getting what you want are sky high. By telling them you’ll give them a good survey, you’ve done them a favor…and you’ve also implicitly explained you know how to really hurt them if you want to.

The survey is your leverage – use it wisely.

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

The Issue:

Beginning a few months ago, many 2010 Tundra owners complained about check engine lights coming on in their brand-new trucks (setting code P0012 or P0022). Based on notes from owners and brief conversations with dealership personnel, we wrongly concluded this issue was caused by oil debris clogging cam position sensors. However, the problem is that Toyota used the wrong spring in the VVT-i gear assembly in some 2010 Tundras (both 4.6L and 5.7L). Because the spring in some Tundras is too stiff, the VVT-i system will “stick” in the wrong mode, setting a check engine light.

When this problem was first discovered on some trucks, Toyota advised dealers that it was an oil contamination issue and that an oil change would fix the problem. However, this is not the case. While changing the oil temporarily solved the issue, at some point these Tundras will need a new VVT-i gear assembly.

Some new 2010 Tundras with check-engine lights and codes P0012 or P0022 most likely need a new VVT-i gear.

The Fix:

Tundra’s produced before a certain date need a new VVT-i gear assembly with the correct spring so that the VVT-i system will function correctly. Replacing the assembly is a repair of low difficulty but does require a moderate amount of time. The timing cover, valve covers, and intake manifold must be removed in order to access the cam gears. According to a Toyota technician we spoke with, this is a labor-intensive yet relatively simple task.

Owners should expect to be without their truck for a couple of days, and should be provided a rental vehicle at no charge while the repair is made. This isn’t an item that requires immediate attention either, so feel free to schedule it around your life (this is not an urgent matter).

Effected Trucks

First, this TSB effects 2010 Tundra and Sequoia models ONLY. In order to determine if your truck is effected, you need the last 8 digits of your VIN number. If the last 8 digits of your VIN number are LOWER than the numbers for your vehicle configuration as listed below, you are advised to schedule an appointment.

4.6L 2010 Tundras

• 2wd 4.6L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001114
• 2wd 4.6L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX011968
• 2wd 4.6L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001123

• 4wd 4.6L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001239
• 4wd 4.6L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX008508
• 4wd 4.6L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001181

5.7L 2010 Tundras (non flex-fuel)

• 2wd 5.7L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX003300
• 2wd 5.7L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX087077
• 2wd 5.7L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX006744

• 4wd 5.7L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX004038
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX125564
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX010329

5.7L 2010 Tundras (flex-fuel only)

• 4wd 5.7L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX004040
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX125616
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX010329

This list is sort of confusing, so be sure to double check your VIN. Also be sure to note the cab type and 2wd/4wd.

This isn’t a problem that requires an immediate fix. Feel free to schedule this repair along with your next service.

Technical Explanation of the Problem

All new Toyota Tundras feature VVT-i – variable intake valve timing. VVT-i is one of the marvels of modern engine design, and systems of this type have been successfully used by every auto manufacturer to extract maximum power and efficiency out of their engines for decades.

The Tundra’s VVT-i system relies upon a cam shift to change valve timing. By shifting the cam back and forth, valve timing can be advanced or retarded in order to maximize performance and efficiency. The cam shift mechanism is activated by a combination of oil pressure, electronic valves, and gear assemblies that are set on springs. Here’s a step-by-step explanation of VVT-i in action:

1. As RPMs increase, oil pressure raises.
2. If the engine computer determines that a timing shift is beneficial, it will open the oil control valves and allow oil to apply pressure to the VVT-i gear assembly.
3. The oil pressure on the gears will cause the cam to shift forwards or backwards, moving from one mode to another.

Here’s a video that kind-of-sort-of explains the cam shift. If anyone has a better clip, please share it in the comments.

Click here to view the embedded video.

When this problem first began to occur, the engine computer reported that the oil control valves were malfunctioning (check code P0012 and/or P0022, corresponding to left or right side oil control valve). For some reason or another, it was assumed that oil contamination was causing a false-positive error, so the recommendation was to simply change out the contaminated oil. Because the system is driven by oil pressure, a fresh batch of oil was sufficient to fix the problem (albeit temporarily). As time went by, however, many trucks with oil changes returned once again with the same problem. Further investigation revealed that the cam gears weren’t activating correctly because the spring behind them was a little too stiff. So, replacing the spring is the fix.

As you can see, this repair has absolutely no impact on the heart of engine. Advancing or retarding the cam timing will not cause a situation where valves can be damaged, etc., so a malfunctioning VVT-i gear can not hurt the engine.

Please share your comments or questions below.

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

Toyota requires 0W-20 full synthetic oil on new 4.6L 2010 Tundras

Note – if you’re not sure about the difference between synthetic and “natural” motor oil, check out this post about synthetic oil.

However, while the use of 0W-20 synthetic oil is now required for the 2010 and up 4.6L Tundra, the 10k mile oil change interval recommendation is not for Tundras that are used in such a way as to qualify as “severe duty.” Severe duty trucks will instead need oil changes at 5,000 miles. Here are typical truck uses that Toyota would define as “severe duty”:”

• Towing or hauling on any sort of significant/continuous basis
• Exposure to extreme cold (-10 F or below) or extreme heat (120 F or above)
• Long-duration idling (like police and work vehicles that can idle for hours at a time)
• Use in especially dusty or dirty conditions (off-roading, construction sites, etc.)
• Constant use at very high altitude (above 10k feet)
• Continuous stop-and-go traffic
• Racing, off-roading, or any other fun activity that places a lot of strain on a motor

Looking at the list of items that will qualify as severe duty, it’s hard to imagine that many Tundra owners will get to enjoy 10k mile oil changes. So, we decided to create a little poll just to see what the answer will be:

It’s important to note that Toyota has tried this type of program before. A few years ago, Toyota told owners they could switch from 5,000 mile oil change intervals to 7,500 miles. Not long after this change took place, hundreds of Toyota owners began to complain about engines ruined by oil sludge. While the oil sludge issue was likely a combination of engine design issues and inconsistent maintenance, Toyota can ill afford to make the same mistake twice.

We spoke with a local Toyota dealership service manager about this new 10k mile oil change interval, and one of his main concerns was “What if someone forgets an oil change? It could be 20k miles before we get that bad oil out of the motor.” Great question. Here’s a list of the pros and cons of the 10k mile oil change interval we came up with.

PROS

• 0W-20 synthetic oil should boost fuel economy ever so slightly – 0.4 mpg to 0.7 mpg according to Toyota. In fact, Toyota’s memo to dealers mentions that the increase in fuel economy – and the subsequent fuel savings – should offset the higher cost of synthetic oil.
• Synthetic oil protects best in extreme conditions. Synthetic oil offers the greatest benefits when it’s used in extreme situations – like racing, off-roading, or hauling your camper up over Loveland pass.
• Using half as much engine oil is good for the environment. Synthetic oil is still derived from fossil fuels, so using less means less used oil waste.
• Slightly lower maintenance costs. If you combine the gas mileage savings with the fact that your oil is changed half as often, it should be a little cheaper (provided your truck isn’t considered “severe duty”).

CONS

• Forgetting an oil change could kill a motor. No one knows how a motor will respond to 20k miles with the same oil, but no one should want to find out. If oil is only changed every 10k miles, forgetting or skipping an oil change could be tragic.
• Expensive full synthetic oil is now required for 4.6L Tundra owners. If you use your 4.6L Tundra truck like a truck, your oil change bills have just gone up.
• This will soon apply to all new Tundras. Unless the backlash from owners is severe, Toyota is probably going to require full synthetic on all new Tundras in the very new future.

One final thought: Requiring full synthetic for truck owners is a slippery slope. While it’s great to talk about the fact that full synthetic allows 10k mile oil changes, the fact is most truck owners are going to stick with 5,000 mile changes (some even stick with 3,000). Many mechanics would argue that it’s better for an engine to get normal oil changes every 5k miles than full synthetic every 10k miles, so this policy seems to have an environmental aspect that might not be well thought-out. Perhaps Toyota has decided that slightly better gas mileage and reducing the amount of used oil waste is best, but the concern is that this policy isn’t best for the wallets of the truck’s owners.

What do you think – is Toyota crazy to require full synthetic yet allow 10k mile oil change intervals?

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

Please view 2010 Tundra VVT-i TSB for the full details

The following post is no longer correct.

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If you found this post as a result of an internet search, your day might have been going a little something like this:

I have just bought a 2010 Tundra and only had it for 5 days before the check engine light came on. It didn’t quite have 300 miles…

OR…

We just bought a 2010 Toyota Tundra Rock Warrior. Had the truck a week with approx. 400 miles on it when we took it out on the highway and the check engine light came on.

Do you have a brand-new 2010 Tundra with a check-engine light on? Good news - it's probably just contaminated oil.

If that describes your problem, we’ve got great news for you – it’s no big deal. The solution is nothing more than an oil change. What follows next is a description of the problem and what you need to do if your 2010 Tundra has a check engine light. see this post.

If your new Tundra has a check engine light on, obviously it’s time to take it to the dealership. However, don’t be surprised if your dealership service adviser is a little shocked at the fact you’re bringing in a new Tundra for a check-engine light. The fact is that these new trucks are top quality, and the people that work in the service department just don’t see new Tundras that need service.

NOTE: What follows next is a fairly technical explanation of this problem. If you’re just looking for the solution to this problem, check out what to do if your brand-new Tundra has a check engine light on.

Once your dealership gets your truck into the shop and pulls the codes, they’ll probably find out that the engine has set code #P0012 or code #P0022. According to the shop manual, codes P0012 and P0022 are generated by the crank position sensor. Normally, when these codes are set they indicate that the computer has detected a camshaft timing anomaly. The shop manual is clear in the fact that these codes are NOT necessarily indicative of a problem. As if often the case in today’s computer-controlled engines, codes P0012 and P0022 can be caused by “ghosts and gremlins.” Therefore, when a technician finds these codes, the recommended procedure in the Toyota shop manual is to:

1. Perform a VVT system diagnostic
2. If the VVT system passes the test, the shop technician is supposed to reset the check engine light
3. Test-drive the vehicle to see if the code is reset by the computer. If the code is once again set, the tech will check the engine timing, test the ECM, etc. If the code is NOT reset…
4. Assume the problem was simply a false positive until proven otherwise.

As a result of comments on this post about the 2010 Tundra, we know that this problem isn’t simple a  false positive “ghost.” We know that these codes were set as a result of very small contaminants in the engine oil (metal shavings left over from the manufacturing process). It turns out that the shop manual says that contaminants in the oil can cause the codes to set – however, the shop manual also states that the engine will automatically clear the contaminants. SO…the technicians who encounter this problem might not be inclined to change the oil.

In fact, many Toyota dealerships are unaware of the fact that some new 2010 Tundras have contaminated oil. When these dealers receive a new truck with codes P0012 or P0022, it’s very likely the technician will follow the shop procedure, find no problem, and then hand the keys back to the owner saying “let’s see if it happens again.” This is NOT a symptom of a bad dealership, this is just a symptom of a dealership that isn’t aware of this issue. However, if the dealership doesn’t know about the contamination in the oil and they don’t do an oil change, the check engine light will probably come back on.

If you have a brand new 2010 Tundra with a check engine light on, here’s what you need to do:

1. Take it to the dealership.

2. Tell the dealership you’ve learned on the internet that codes P0012 and P0022 are being set in brand new 2010 Tundras as a result of oil contamination. A print out of this article might help.

3. Ask the dealership to call Toyota engineering to verify the contents of this article IF these are the codes that are set in your Tundra.

4. Assuming that your Tundra has these codes, the dealership should change your oil. If this is indeed the cause of your Tundra’s check engine light, you won’t have any more problems.

Special thanks to commenters Bill, Jeremy, Kristy, Jill, Gabriel, Wayne, and NJ Contractor for bringing this issue to light.

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

Why your truck gets bad mileage in the winter and what you can do about it.

It’s frustrating, but it’s something most truck owners have learned to live with. However – there are some things you can do about lower gas mileage in cold weather. First, though, we have to know why it happens.

The most common explanation you’ll hear for the drop in gas mileage is that it’s caused by a “winter blend” of gasoline. While there is a slightly different formula of gasoline sold during the colder months, that’s not the problem. The answer is the cold itself.

Within 30 seconds of starting your truck, the engine computer begins checking the temperature of the air entering the engine. This measurement is important because it determines if extra fuel is needed to prevent a lean condition. [For those that don't know, "lean" refers to a situation when there isn't enough fuel being used in the combustion process. Without getting too technical, a "lean" condition is bad because it can cause engine damage.]

The intake air temperature has a direct impact on whether or not an engine will run lean. If the air is very cold, it doesn’t mix properly with gasoline (gasoline atomizes poorly in cold air). Therefore, if your truck’s computer detects cold air, it injects too much fuel (called a “rich” condition) to prevent any possibility of your engine running lean.

Once the engine has reached full operating temperature, the air in the intake is significantly warmed by the heat radiating from the engine compartment. At this point, the engine computer returns to normal and stops using extra fuel. So, the sooner you can warm-up your engine, the better your fuel economy will be in the winter time.

Shelly says cold engines burn extra fuel.

Here’s what you can do to get your cold weather fuel economy back to normal:

1. The easiest solution is to park your vehicle in a heated garage. If you can prevent your engine from getting really cold, you will decrease the amount of time it takes the engine to get nice and hot.

2. Use a block heater, especially in colder climates. Block heaters aren’t technically necessary in most climates in the continental United States, but anyone who has used one will tell you they cut engine warm-up time substantially.

3. Don’t sit and warm-up – start driving right away. When it’s really cold outside, a lot of vehicle owners let their engines run for a few minutes before taking off. However, this “warm-up” really hurts your gas mileage. It’s also bad for the environment, and contrary to popular belief it’s not “good” for your vehicle either.

Bottom Line: Even if you can’t park inside or use a block heater, eliminating extended “warm-up” idling will make a BIG difference in your gasoline bill.

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks

Of course for truck owners, it’s not really about speed…it’s about power. Power to tow, haul, pass on the freeway, head up to the mountains, or show that snob in the Range Rover who thinks his wittle SUV is fast who really has the big motor.

Cheap truck performance tips - 5 ways to go faster for less than $50

The most common truck performance accessories are air intakes and exhaust systems. However, if you’re short on cash, or if you don’t feel like spending half your truck payment (or more) on an aFe air intake, here are some ideas for making your truck more powerful without spending more than $50.

1. Clear out all the crap. Do you roll down the road with a bunch of “stuff” in your pickup? Hauling around that old roll of carpet, that box of clothes you’re supposed to drop off at Goodwill, or that extra 50 pounds worth of “who knows” that just seems to accumulate is wasting power (and fuel). Get rid of just a few pounds of extra weight, and your truck is faster (and your fuel economy might be better too). Cost: Free

2. Check your tire pressure. Here’s another fuel economy tip that also has a performance advantage. Low tire pressure isn’t hurting you “off the line”, but on the highway under-inflated tires can add significant resistance. Properly inflated tires improve high-speed passing performance, reduce tire wear, and improve gas mileage…it’s a win-win-win. Cost: Free

We tested a K&N air filter and noted a significant fuel economy improvement

3. Replace your air filter. A dirty air filter is a power killer. Depending on your local climate, where you drive, etc., your air filter can get dirty…quick. After as little as 20k miles, your air filter could be clogged. You can replace your filter with another plain old paper air filter for $20-$30, but your best bet is to go with a K&N truck air filter. They add power AND they boost fuel economy. Cost: About $50

4. Clean your fuel injectors. Fuel injectors can become clogged with gunk over time, hurting performance. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner isn’t going to add a second to your next quarter mile time, but it will help make sure your injectors are running as clean as possible. A 6-pack of NOS fuel system cleaner is plenty for the whole family – one bottle should last at least 20k miles. Cost: Six bottles for about $35 with free shipping.

5. Change the oil. When it comes to cheap performance, fresh oil is king – especially if your motor is older. Brand new oil lubricates best, and after a few hundred miles of use (especially during stop-start city driving), regular oil loses some of it’s premier lubricating abilities. Unless you’re running pure synthetic oil, changing the oil earlier than necessary will give you a little performance boost. Cost: The price of an oil change

That’s the big list – anything we’re missing?

Check out this list of available Toyota Tundra shocks