We recently received a copy of a Toyota TSB (technical service bulletin) regarding the mysterious 2010 Tundra check engine light issue we documented a few months ago. What follows is an explanation of the exact problem, how it’s fixed, and what Tundra owners can expect. We’ve also included a VIN list that you can use to see if your Tundra is effected by this TSB.

The Issue:

Beginning a few months ago, many 2010 Tundra owners complained about check engine lights coming on in their brand-new trucks (setting code P0012 or P0022). Based on notes from owners and brief conversations with dealership personnel, we wrongly concluded this issue was caused by oil debris clogging cam position sensors. However, the problem is that Toyota used the wrong spring in the VVT-i gear assembly in some 2010 Tundras (both 4.6L and 5.7L). Because the spring in some Tundras is too stiff, the VVT-i system will “stick” in the wrong mode, setting a check engine light.

When this problem was first discovered on some trucks, Toyota advised dealers that it was an oil contamination issue and that an oil change would fix the problem. However, this is not the case. While changing the oil temporarily solved the issue, at some point these Tundras will need a new VVT-i gear assembly.

Some new 2010 Tundras with check-engine lights and codes P0012 or P0022 most likely need a new VVT-i gear.

The Fix:

Tundra’s produced before a certain date need a new VVT-i gear assembly with the correct spring so that the VVT-i system will function correctly. Replacing the assembly is a repair of low difficulty but does require a moderate amount of time. The timing cover, valve covers, and intake manifold must be removed in order to access the cam gears. According to a Toyota technician we spoke with, this is a labor-intensive yet relatively simple task.

Owners should expect to be without their truck for a couple of days, and should be provided a rental vehicle at no charge while the repair is made. This isn’t an item that requires immediate attention either, so feel free to schedule it around your life (this is not an urgent matter).

Effected Trucks

First, this TSB effects 2010 Tundra and Sequoia models ONLY. In order to determine if your truck is effected, you need the last 8 digits of your VIN number. If the last 8 digits of your VIN number are LOWER than the numbers for your vehicle configuration as listed below, you are advised to schedule an appointment.

4.6L 2010 Tundras

• 2wd 4.6L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001114
• 2wd 4.6L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX011968
• 2wd 4.6L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001123

• 4wd 4.6L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001239
• 4wd 4.6L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX008508
• 4wd 4.6L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX001181

5.7L 2010 Tundras (non flex-fuel)

• 2wd 5.7L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX003300
• 2wd 5.7L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX087077
• 2wd 5.7L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX006744

• 4wd 5.7L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX004038
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX125564
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX010329

5.7L 2010 Tundras (flex-fuel only)

• 4wd 5.7L Regular Cab Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX004040
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab and CrewMax Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX125616
• 4wd 5.7L DoubleCab Long Bed Tundras with the last 8 lower than AX010329

This list is sort of confusing, so be sure to double check your VIN. Also be sure to note the cab type and 2wd/4wd.

This isn’t a problem that requires an immediate fix. Feel free to schedule this repair along with your next service.

Technical Explanation of the Problem

All new Toyota Tundras feature VVT-i – variable intake valve timing. VVT-i is one of the marvels of modern engine design, and systems of this type have been successfully used by every auto manufacturer to extract maximum power and efficiency out of their engines for decades.

The Tundra’s VVT-i system relies upon a cam shift to change valve timing. By shifting the cam back and forth, valve timing can be advanced or retarded in order to maximize performance and efficiency. The cam shift mechanism is activated by a combination of oil pressure, electronic valves, and gear assemblies that are set on springs. Here’s a step-by-step explanation of VVT-i in action:

1. As RPMs increase, oil pressure raises.
2. If the engine computer determines that a timing shift is beneficial, it will open the oil control valves and allow oil to apply pressure to the VVT-i gear assembly.
3. The oil pressure on the gears will cause the cam to shift forwards or backwards, moving from one mode to another.

Here’s a video that kind-of-sort-of explains the cam shift. If anyone has a better clip, please share it in the comments.

Click here to view the embedded video.

When this problem first began to occur, the engine computer reported that the oil control valves were malfunctioning (check code P0012 and/or P0022, corresponding to left or right side oil control valve). For some reason or another, it was assumed that oil contamination was causing a false-positive error, so the recommendation was to simply change out the contaminated oil. Because the system is driven by oil pressure, a fresh batch of oil was sufficient to fix the problem (albeit temporarily). As time went by, however, many trucks with oil changes returned once again with the same problem. Further investigation revealed that the cam gears weren’t activating correctly because the spring behind them was a little too stiff. So, replacing the spring is the fix.

As you can see, this repair has absolutely no impact on the heart of engine. Advancing or retarding the cam timing will not cause a situation where valves can be damaged, etc., so a malfunctioning VVT-i gear can not hurt the engine.

Please share your comments or questions below.

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As has been rumored on a few internet forums, Toyota is expected to officially announce a change to the oil change interval for a series of 2010 Toyota vehicles – including the 2010 Toyota Tundra with the new 4.6L V8. Toyota will inform 4.6L Tundra owners that they can go 10,000 miles between oil changes but that they must use 0W-20 synthetic oil. If any 2010 4.6L Tundra owners have already done a full-synthetic oil change at 5k miles, Toyota will credit them a free oil change.

Toyota requires 0W-20 full synthetic oil on new 4.6L 2010 Tundras

Note – if you’re not sure about the difference between synthetic and “natural” motor oil, check out this post about synthetic oil.

However, while the use of 0W-20 synthetic oil is now required for the 2010 and up 4.6L Tundra, the 10k mile oil change interval recommendation is not for Tundras that are used in such a way as to qualify as “severe duty.” Severe duty trucks will instead need oil changes at 5,000 miles. Here are typical truck uses that Toyota would define as “severe duty”:”

• Towing or hauling on any sort of significant/continuous basis
• Exposure to extreme cold (-10 F or below) or extreme heat (120 F or above)
• Long-duration idling (like police and work vehicles that can idle for hours at a time)
• Use in especially dusty or dirty conditions (off-roading, construction sites, etc.)
• Constant use at very high altitude (above 10k feet)
• Continuous stop-and-go traffic
• Racing, off-roading, or any other fun activity that places a lot of strain on a motor

Looking at the list of items that will qualify as severe duty, it’s hard to imagine that many Tundra owners will get to enjoy 10k mile oil changes. So, we decided to create a little poll just to see what the answer will be:

It’s important to note that Toyota has tried this type of program before. A few years ago, Toyota told owners they could switch from 5,000 mile oil change intervals to 7,500 miles. Not long after this change took place, hundreds of Toyota owners began to complain about engines ruined by oil sludge. While the oil sludge issue was likely a combination of engine design issues and inconsistent maintenance, Toyota can ill afford to make the same mistake twice.

We spoke with a local Toyota dealership service manager about this new 10k mile oil change interval, and one of his main concerns was “What if someone forgets an oil change? It could be 20k miles before we get that bad oil out of the motor.” Great question. Here’s a list of the pros and cons of the 10k mile oil change interval we came up with.

PROS

• 0W-20 synthetic oil should boost fuel economy ever so slightly – 0.4 mpg to 0.7 mpg according to Toyota. In fact, Toyota’s memo to dealers mentions that the increase in fuel economy – and the subsequent fuel savings – should offset the higher cost of synthetic oil.
• Synthetic oil protects best in extreme conditions. Synthetic oil offers the greatest benefits when it’s used in extreme situations – like racing, off-roading, or hauling your camper up over Loveland pass.
• Using half as much engine oil is good for the environment. Synthetic oil is still derived from fossil fuels, so using less means less used oil waste.
• Slightly lower maintenance costs. If you combine the gas mileage savings with the fact that your oil is changed half as often, it should be a little cheaper (provided your truck isn’t considered “severe duty”).

CONS

• Forgetting an oil change could kill a motor. No one knows how a motor will respond to 20k miles with the same oil, but no one should want to find out. If oil is only changed every 10k miles, forgetting or skipping an oil change could be tragic.
• Expensive full synthetic oil is now required for 4.6L Tundra owners. If you use your 4.6L Tundra truck like a truck, your oil change bills have just gone up.
• This will soon apply to all new Tundras. Unless the backlash from owners is severe, Toyota is probably going to require full synthetic on all new Tundras in the very new future.

One final thought: Requiring full synthetic for truck owners is a slippery slope. While it’s great to talk about the fact that full synthetic allows 10k mile oil changes, the fact is most truck owners are going to stick with 5,000 mile changes (some even stick with 3,000). Many mechanics would argue that it’s better for an engine to get normal oil changes every 5k miles than full synthetic every 10k miles, so this policy seems to have an environmental aspect that might not be well thought-out. Perhaps Toyota has decided that slightly better gas mileage and reducing the amount of used oil waste is best, but the concern is that this policy isn’t best for the wallets of the truck’s owners.

What do you think – is Toyota crazy to require full synthetic yet allow 10k mile oil change intervals?

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UPDATE – TOYOTA HAS ISSUED A TSB FOR THIS ISSUE

Please view 2010 Tundra VVT-i TSB for the full details

The following post is no longer correct.

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If you found this post as a result of an internet search, your day might have been going a little something like this:

I have just bought a 2010 Tundra and only had it for 5 days before the check engine light came on. It didn’t quite have 300 miles…

OR…

We just bought a 2010 Toyota Tundra Rock Warrior. Had the truck a week with approx. 400 miles on it when we took it out on the highway and the check engine light came on.

Do you have a brand-new 2010 Tundra with a check-engine light on? Good news - it's probably just contaminated oil.

If that describes your problem, we’ve got great news for you – it’s no big deal. The solution is nothing more than an oil change. What follows next is a description of the problem and what you need to do if your 2010 Tundra has a check engine light. see this post.

If your new Tundra has a check engine light on, obviously it’s time to take it to the dealership. However, don’t be surprised if your dealership service adviser is a little shocked at the fact you’re bringing in a new Tundra for a check-engine light. The fact is that these new trucks are top quality, and the people that work in the service department just don’t see new Tundras that need service.

NOTE: What follows next is a fairly technical explanation of this problem. If you’re just looking for the solution to this problem, check out what to do if your brand-new Tundra has a check engine light on.

Once your dealership gets your truck into the shop and pulls the codes, they’ll probably find out that the engine has set code #P0012 or code #P0022. According to the shop manual, codes P0012 and P0022 are generated by the crank position sensor. Normally, when these codes are set they indicate that the computer has detected a camshaft timing anomaly. The shop manual is clear in the fact that these codes are NOT necessarily indicative of a problem. As if often the case in today’s computer-controlled engines, codes P0012 and P0022 can be caused by “ghosts and gremlins.” Therefore, when a technician finds these codes, the recommended procedure in the Toyota shop manual is to:

1. Perform a VVT system diagnostic
2. If the VVT system passes the test, the shop technician is supposed to reset the check engine light
3. Test-drive the vehicle to see if the code is reset by the computer. If the code is once again set, the tech will check the engine timing, test the ECM, etc. If the code is NOT reset…
4. Assume the problem was simply a false positive until proven otherwise.

As a result of comments on this post about the 2010 Tundra, we know that this problem isn’t simple a  false positive “ghost.” We know that these codes were set as a result of very small contaminants in the engine oil (metal shavings left over from the manufacturing process). It turns out that the shop manual says that contaminants in the oil can cause the codes to set – however, the shop manual also states that the engine will automatically clear the contaminants. SO…the technicians who encounter this problem might not be inclined to change the oil.

In fact, many Toyota dealerships are unaware of the fact that some new 2010 Tundras have contaminated oil. When these dealers receive a new truck with codes P0012 or P0022, it’s very likely the technician will follow the shop procedure, find no problem, and then hand the keys back to the owner saying “let’s see if it happens again.” This is NOT a symptom of a bad dealership, this is just a symptom of a dealership that isn’t aware of this issue. However, if the dealership doesn’t know about the contamination in the oil and they don’t do an oil change, the check engine light will probably come back on.

If you have a brand new 2010 Tundra with a check engine light on, here’s what you need to do:

1. Take it to the dealership.

2. Tell the dealership you’ve learned on the internet that codes P0012 and P0022 are being set in brand new 2010 Tundras as a result of oil contamination. A print out of this article might help.

3. Ask the dealership to call Toyota engineering to verify the contents of this article IF these are the codes that are set in your Tundra.

4. Assuming that your Tundra has these codes, the dealership should change your oil. If this is indeed the cause of your Tundra’s check engine light, you won’t have any more problems.

Special thanks to commenters Bill, Jeremy, Kristy, Jill, Gabriel, Wayne, and NJ Contractor for bringing this issue to light.

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It’s that time of year again – colder temperatures are coming. During the winter time, most truck owners notice a 5-10% drop in fuel economy. Since truck fuel economy is already pretty low, going from 16 MPG to a little better than 14 MPG means an extra $25 to $50 in extra gas every month…and most truck owners notice that right away.

Why your truck gets bad mileage in the winter and what you can do about it.

It’s frustrating, but it’s something most truck owners have learned to live with. However – there are some things you can do about lower gas mileage in cold weather. First, though, we have to know why it happens.

The most common explanation you’ll hear for the drop in gas mileage is that it’s caused by a “winter blend” of gasoline. While there is a slightly different formula of gasoline sold during the colder months, that’s not the problem. The answer is the cold itself.

Within 30 seconds of starting your truck, the engine computer begins checking the temperature of the air entering the engine. This measurement is important because it determines if extra fuel is needed to prevent a lean condition. [For those that don't know, "lean" refers to a situation when there isn't enough fuel being used in the combustion process. Without getting too technical, a "lean" condition is bad because it can cause engine damage.]

The intake air temperature has a direct impact on whether or not an engine will run lean. If the air is very cold, it doesn’t mix properly with gasoline (gasoline atomizes poorly in cold air). Therefore, if your truck’s computer detects cold air, it injects too much fuel (called a “rich” condition) to prevent any possibility of your engine running lean.

Once the engine has reached full operating temperature, the air in the intake is significantly warmed by the heat radiating from the engine compartment. At this point, the engine computer returns to normal and stops using extra fuel. So, the sooner you can warm-up your engine, the better your fuel economy will be in the winter time.

Shelly says cold engines burn extra fuel.

Here’s what you can do to get your cold weather fuel economy back to normal:

1. The easiest solution is to park your vehicle in a heated garage. If you can prevent your engine from getting really cold, you will decrease the amount of time it takes the engine to get nice and hot.

2. Use a block heater, especially in colder climates. Block heaters aren’t technically necessary in most climates in the continental United States, but anyone who has used one will tell you they cut engine warm-up time substantially.

3. Don’t sit and warm-up – start driving right away. When it’s really cold outside, a lot of vehicle owners let their engines run for a few minutes before taking off. However, this “warm-up” really hurts your gas mileage. It’s also bad for the environment, and contrary to popular belief it’s not “good” for your vehicle either.

Bottom Line: Even if you can’t park inside or use a block heater, eliminating extended “warm-up” idling will make a BIG difference in your gasoline bill.

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Do you enjoy tweaking your truck to squeeze out every little bit of power? Who doesn’t. When Henry Ford built the first Model T with a pickup bed in 1925, somewhere someone was trying to figure out a way to make it a little faster.

Of course for truck owners, it’s not really about speed…it’s about power. Power to tow, haul, pass on the freeway, head up to the mountains, or show that snob in the Range Rover who thinks his wittle SUV is fast who really has the big motor.

Cheap truck performance tips - 5 ways to go faster for less than $50

The most common truck performance accessories are air intakes and exhaust systems. However, if you’re short on cash, or if you don’t feel like spending half your truck payment (or more) on an aFe air intake, here are some ideas for making your truck more powerful without spending more than $50.

1. Clear out all the crap. Do you roll down the road with a bunch of “stuff” in your pickup? Hauling around that old roll of carpet, that box of clothes you’re supposed to drop off at Goodwill, or that extra 50 pounds worth of “who knows” that just seems to accumulate is wasting power (and fuel). Get rid of just a few pounds of extra weight, and your truck is faster (and your fuel economy might be better too). Cost: Free

2. Check your tire pressure. Here’s another fuel economy tip that also has a performance advantage. Low tire pressure isn’t hurting you “off the line”, but on the highway under-inflated tires can add significant resistance. Properly inflated tires improve high-speed passing performance, reduce tire wear, and improve gas mileage…it’s a win-win-win. Cost: Free

We tested a K&N air filter and noted a significant fuel economy improvement

3. Replace your air filter. A dirty air filter is a power killer. Depending on your local climate, where you drive, etc., your air filter can get dirty…quick. After as little as 20k miles, your air filter could be clogged. You can replace your filter with another plain old paper air filter for $20-$30, but your best bet is to go with a K&N truck air filter. They add power AND they boost fuel economy. Cost: About $50

4. Clean your fuel injectors. Fuel injectors can become clogged with gunk over time, hurting performance. A bottle of fuel injector cleaner isn’t going to add a second to your next quarter mile time, but it will help make sure your injectors are running as clean as possible. A 6-pack of NOS fuel system cleaner is plenty for the whole family – one bottle should last at least 20k miles. Cost: Six bottles for about $35 with free shipping.

5. Change the oil. When it comes to cheap performance, fresh oil is king – especially if your motor is older. Brand new oil lubricates best, and after a few hundred miles of use (especially during stop-start city driving), regular oil loses some of it’s premier lubricating abilities. Unless you’re running pure synthetic oil, changing the oil earlier than necessary will give you a little performance boost. Cost: The price of an oil change

That’s the big list – anything we’re missing?

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Last week a Toyota dealership dropped a link on Twitter with the warning “Did you know you have to change your oil twice as often if you’re running E85?” (or something like that ).

The link went to a page that advocated a 2,500 mile oil change frequency for truck owners using E85. Of course, there was no explanation as to why E85 users needed to change their oil twice as often, just that they should. THAT, ladies and gentleman, is why dealership service departments get a bad wrap. Instead of explaining why 2,500 might be a prudent choice (and it might), they make a blanket statement. I say p-shaw. This recommendation is, at best, paranoid.

First, here’s why this recommendation was made. We all know that E85, when compared to “normal” gasoline (which is about 10% ethanol), is fairly acidic. This acid has the ability to neutralize some of the lubricating ability of normal engine oil, but only mildly so. In fact, I would guess that regular old motor oil would breakdown more from heating and cooling over the course of 5,000 miles than it ever would from the acid inherent in E85. Normal E85 isn’t much of a threat to engine oil – the issue occurs when normal E85 becomes contaminated with water.

The combustion process of water-contaminated E85 will lead to the formation of a strong acid (formic acid, to be exact). This acid, left unchecked, has the ability to cripple an engine because it can 1) dramatically reduce the lubricating ability of normal motor oil and 2) eat away at the high-tolerance metal engine components. E85 with water contamination, in a normal engine, is dangerous stuff. Changing the oil frequently is a good insurance policy for a normal engine running E85, and this is probably the basis of this recommendation.

HOWEVER, if you’re running E85, you’re probably not driving a normal engine! Vehicles that are factory capable of running E85 have specially coated pistons and valves that are less susceptible to acid wear. Unless you’ve installed an E85 conversion kit on a “normal” gas motor, you’ve got some built-in protection. Moreover, if you’re driving your factory flex-fuel vehicle with E85 and you’re using the factory recommended E85 oil blend, your oil has an extra dose of detergents that designed to neutralize any acid that might form.

Finally, and perhaps most importantly, water contamination in E85 is pretty darn rare. Keep in mind that water contamination levels of 1% or less do not cause a significant problem, and anything above 1% is readily preventable. Between tank storage regulations and testing equipment and frequent fuel testing (check out the state of Minnesota’s E85 water contamination procedures for an example), finding E85 with any significant water contamination is almost impossible.

Therefore, the recommendation that drivers using E85 should change their oil more fequently is, at best, paranoid. Any dealership service department that makes this recommendation is either ignorant, overly cautious, or after your wallet. If you’re running E85 in your flex fuel truck, stick with the standard 5,000 mile oil change interval, make sure to use the recommended E85 oil blend, and don’t worry about it.

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If you’ve been paying attention to automotive news in the last week, you’ve undoubtedly heard that Toyota lost an obscene amount of money in the first quarter – $7.7 billion to be exact. Toyota was quick to point out that this loss is against a $3.3 billion profit in the previous three quarters, resulting in a $4.4 billion loss for the 2008 financial year. (NOTE: Toyota’s financial year ends after the first quarter.) Worst still, Toyota anticipates losing about $5.5 billion for the coming year.

Toyota’s Loss is Big, But Don’t Let Anyone Fool You
photo credit: Andres Rueda

In other words, Toyota lost a lot of money last year and they’re planning on losing a lot of money this year too. Considering the fact that Toyota hasn’t had an operating loss since 1950, this is a big deal. Toyota has taken sweeping action with tremendous production cuts, cost cutting measures, and most recently announcing that they’re going to fire half of their corporate management team.

However, before anyone starts worrying about “Toyota being the next GM,” here’s some perspective:

1) Toyota needs more balanced international production – too many vehicles are made in Japan. Did you know that the biggest single source of Toyota’s loss last year was the devaluation of the American dollar? Because many Toyota models are manufactured in Japan, there value is based on the value of the Japanese currency the Yen. When the dollar is strong against the Yen, Toyota can export vehicles from Japan for profit. When the dollar is weak against the Yen, Toyota loses money. When the American dollar nose dived following the credit crisis of 2008, Toyota started racking up huge losses.

The solution? Build more vehicles in the USA. Besides reducing Toyota’s exposure to currency fluctuations, increasing North American production is the right thing to do. Otherwise, the only way Toyota can limit their losses on currency valuations is to cut back on production (which is what they’re doing).

2) A Loss Is Inevitable. New vehicle sales in North America are down 36% industry wide YTD, and the best estimates are that sales will be down more than 30% in North America for 2009 when compared to 2008. Toyota is the largest automaker in the world – when auto sales drop this much, they’re bound to see a drop in profits.

3) Toyota’s horizon is long term – Toyota will never be the “next GM.” In 1998, GM attempted to address their labor cost issues with the UAW. The result? The UAW went on strike for 53 days until GM backed off of their demands for lower labor costs. GM failed to address their labor cost issues (again), ultimately setting the stage for a government bailout in 2008 (and a probable bankruptcy in 2009).

Yet in that same year, GM’s share price before and after the strike was nearly unchanged. GM President Rick Wagoner received a half million dollar bonus following the strike, despite the fact GM lost as much as $5 billion for the year. If you’re wondering how this could have happened, it’s important to recognize that at GM it’s all about the share price. No one on Wall Street was (or is) thinking 10 years down the road, so no one in GM’s board room was thinking about it either. Only when the company is at death’s door will major changes occur.

Toyota leadership, on the other hand, is completely focused on the future. When Toyota determined they were looking at a loss for 2008, they canceled all executive bonuses (which I had a problem with, for the record). Toyota is following that action up by firing half their management team – do either of those moves sound like something GM would have done in 1998?

Until Toyota starts rewarding execs and unions for multi-billion dollar loses, the comparison to GM is completely unfounded.

While Toyota’s recent loss is big, there’s no reason to question Toyota’s future. Toyota holds $30 billion in cash reserves, so they’re not going to have any trouble taking a loss in 2009 or 2010. When the market rebounds in 2011 or 2012, Toyota will be well positioned to compete with a full prodcut line-up, a slew of hybrids, and hopefully an updated Tundra.

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Leather seats are the ultimate when it comes to truck upholstery. Comfortable and classy, leather is also unfortunately a little harder to keep looking good over time than simple vinyl or fabric. Not only does the sun conspire to burn your legs (and behind) if your truck is left exposed to its hot rays in the afternoon, but the UV light and heat can cause the leather to crack and fade over time, leaving a wrinkly-looking mess that might eventually tear.

Keep your Tundra leather interior looking new.

Obviously, depending upon the climate you live in, it can take a long time for your leather to end up in that kind of condition. With a little bit of effort, however, you can take some steps now to prevent your leather seats from ever succumbing to decay.

While it may have been chemically treated, dyed and then stretched over the frame of your seats, leather is an organic material and as such requires care and attention over its lifetime in order for it to remain supple and soft. Some people use generic cleaning products on every nook and cranny of their interior, but unless you are the kind of person who would throw a leather jacket in the washing machine, then it’s easy to see that this isn’t the best solution.

Care tip #1: Use leather conditioner.

Lexol is a company which has a solid reputation in the field of leather care. One of their most universally praised products is their 1015 Leather Conditioner. Designed to be used in conjunction with one of their leather cleaning products, Lexol’s 1015 replenishes the natural oils that are removed by cleaning products along with all of the dirt. These oils are vital to maintaining the leather’s ability to stretch and maintain a smooth appearance, as well as resist heat damage, and they need to be replenished every time the leather is cleaned.

Applying Lexol 1015 Leather Conditioner is as simple as spraying it onto your seats and gently kneading it in with a somewhat damp cloth. The product needs to sit on the leather for around half an hour, and then you can wipe it off with a towel and let it dry. This last part can take up to three hours, so make sure you won’t need your truck during that period. It’s also important to avoid applying to hot seats or while the leather is in direct sunlight, and avoid using the product on suede, which requires a different type of treatment.

Care tip #2: Avoid the Sun.

Did you know that concentrated UV light is often used to sanitize medical instruments? It turns out that UV (ultra-violet) light is so toxic to organic compounds that only a few seconds of exposure is enough to kill all micro-organisms.

Since UV is so powerful (and so good at breaking down organic molecules), you should prevent UV light from hitting your truck’s leather interior whenever possible. The easiest method is to park indoors or in the shade during the daylight hours, but if that’s not an option, purchase some sort of sunshade. It’s not that one hour of UV light will hurt your interior, but if your leather is exposed to hundreds or thousands of hours of UV, it will fade and crack.

Care tip #3: Oil is your enemy.

Next time you get in your truck, go ahead and spill a glass of water on your leather seats. If you’ve done a good job of cleaning and conditioning the leather, the water won’t hurt one little bit. If you’ve got a wash rag nearby, you can dump coffee, soda, gravy, and/or wing sauce (sounds like a helluva meal, no?) and the leather will survive A-OK provided you wipe it up quickly.

However, drop one little bit of mineral oil on your leather interior (preferably somewhere where no-one will see it), let it sit for 1 minute, and you’ve got a stain for life. Scrub all you want, but you’ll always be able to see a slight discoloration. Depending on how long you let the oil sit, you might also see the spot “etched” into the leather.

The lesson? Oil is bad – at least if you don’t like stains. Having said that, it’s important to recognize that skin oils will, over the course of a few years, stain your leather seats as well. SO…maybe it’s a good idea to put a towel down before you jump in your leather interior in your swim suit.

One more note about leather conditioner: It might not be able to restore faded and cracked seats to their former glory, but careful application throughout the ownership of your truck should prevent your leather from ever reaching such a serious state of decline. Application is recommended 2 or 3 times a year, depending on how often you clean your seats, and it should be all the protection that your leather seats need. Check out Lexol’s 1015 for less than $10.

The Land Air Sea GPS Tracking Key is a popular GPS tracking device.

Curious as to how much I could improve the paint on my vehicle using an orbital polisher, I decided recently to pick one up and try my hand at it. I had heard many good things about dual action polishers, and the model that was most often recommended to me by friends in the detailing business was the Porter Cable 7424.

Porter Cable Polisher model 7424. About $140 from Amazon.com.

Orbital dual action polishers are great for newbies because their rotation is designed to be random. With a random action polisher, there is little chance that heat will build up under your polishing pad and burn into your paint (unlike a regular rotary polisher). In other words, it’s virtually impossible to damage your paint with an orbital polisher.

The Porter Cable I ordered was bundled with a Menzerna polish kit. I chose Menzerna because all of my research on polishes had lead to this well-established German company as one of the best values on the market. While a bit pricier than other polishes, the Menzerna system I used came with two polishes, one labeled Intensive and one labeled Final. Since my paint was quite faded in a few areas, the idea was to use the Intensive polish first and then fine tune it with the Final. The kit also included two different strengths of cutting pads for the polish, as well as a wax applicator.

I washed the car, clayed it, and then taped all of the trim so that it wouldn’t get stained by the polish. In retrospect, I wish I had spent more time on this last step, as the Porter Cable throws polish EVERYWHERE. I also didn’t use enough layers of tape on my door handles, and as such had to clean off baked on polish when all was said and done. The polish was easy to apply, and the Porter Cable was amazing at really working it into the paint well. It’s key to make sure that the polish is completely broken down so that it’s almost invisible on top of the paint before moving on to let it dry. I didn’t know that at first, and a few of the beginning panels I worked on streaked up from the leftover polish during removal.

The Intensive polish did a good job of bringing out the color, but it also left a sort of haze on the paint due to the level of its cutting action. Not to panic though – the Final polish took care of this haze easily and left a sharp, deep finish. The results were truly stunning once I had completed this second step – I was able to eliminate a huge percentage of the scratches my vehicle had accumulated over the past few years, as well as make my paint really look sharp again.

To seal things in, I went with a Klasse polymer wax that I applied and removed by hand. I chose a polymer because I don’t have time to re-wax every 30 to 40 days, which is what carnauba usually requires. Polymers are also easier to work with than carnauba-based waxes, and less expensive. The next time I wax, I am going to use the Porter Cable to apply and remove the product, as I found my hand-application didn’t give me the even shine I wanted and had to be done twice for satisfactory results.

Using an orbital polisher gave me amazing results. There was no comparison between my past attempts at hand polishing versus what the Porter Cable combined with the Menzerna did for my paint. I honestly wish I had bought this polisher years ago and saved myself hours of hand polishing for mediocre results. The best part is that the Porter Cable is affordable – around $140 – and has a great reputation for reliability, meaning I will be able to count on it to keep my ride looking great for many years to come.

The Land Air Sea GPS Tracking Key is a popular GPS tracking device.

It’s something that has happened to all of us – there’s always a stain or dirty area on your trucks’ paint that never seems to come clean no matter how many times you wash it or how hard you scrub. Or maybe you have a light colored truck and you’re confused by what seems to be pinpricks of corrosion thatsit on the top of your paint. Either way, it’s enough to drive you crazy.

Is your truck too dirty for soap? Use Mother's clay bar to rub out that spot.

The fact is, dirt can become chemically bonded to your paint in such a way that standard washing just can’t remove it. You might get so frustrated that you end up throwing soap all over yourself – see above.

Enter the clay bar.

Those bits of corrosion you are seeing, for example? They are iron filings and other tiny bits of steel that are usually found near industrial areas or train tracks which get stuck in your paint where they rust upon exposure to the elements. Bird droppings, tree sap, and pollen are also common sources of hair pulling when it comes to trying to get a clean finish.

Lucky for us, detailing companies have a product out there that is designed to take care of this very issue. Called “detailing clay” or a “clay bar,” it’s actually just what it sounds like – clay from the ground that is refined in a lab to be safe to use on the paint of your car. Many companies sell a clay bar, but one of the most popular is the Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System, which comes with two bars of clay, a micofiber towel, and some spray-on instant detailer.

Using a clay bar is simple. The first step is to wash and dry your car. Then, break off a small piece of clay and form it so that it has a flat surface that you can run horizontally along your car’s paint. Before the clay actually touches the paint, however, make sure that you spray the panel generously with detailer. This provides a thin membrane of water that allows the clay to slide safely on top of the paint.

How does it work? The clay bar itself is actually a very fine abrasive, much like a polish. While it might sound scary to rub your paint with something abrasive, the clay actually glides along the surface thanks to the detailer, grabbing onto the bits of metal, tar and sap that are embedded in it. You will notice that after a little while the part of the clay bar that was touching your paint will be discolored from the junk it’s picked up off of your trunk. Once this occurs, simply fold the clay over and start using a new, clean side.

It’s important to use plenty of detailer to prevent too much friction from occurring. Also, always rub the clay in the same direction, and if you drop the clay, throw it out immediately – it will have picked up too many tiny rocks and other particles of dirt on the ground to be safe to use on your paint. This is why you only use one small piece at a time – it saves you from having to throw out an entire bar.

Once you’ve completed waxing one panel, run your fingers along the freshly cleaned surface. It should feel much smoother than the rest of your truck. This is because even though it was freshly washed, there are still many contaminants to be found in the paint. Clay is one of the real difference-makers when it comes to detailing, and while it is time intensive you will be impressed with the results after everything is said and done. Since clay removes wax, make sure to re-apply your wax afterwards to seal in and protect the new cleanness. Mother’s Clay bar is a popular and inexpensive choice – about $20.

The Land Air Sea GPS Tracking Key is a popular GPS tracking device.